
Nablus, Palestine: entrance to a tunnel created by Saladdin in the 12th century, used in the Second Intifada
On a twelve-day holiday in Israel and Palestine (the West Bank only; Gaza seems totally off-limits), I visited Hebron, Haifa, Ramallah, Tel Aviv and Nablus. Being there made me proud, ashamed and amazed at what humans are capable of – of what they can achieve and what they can do to other humans. It was an horrific, eye-opening, brilliant experience.
I went expecting to be appalled only at the Isrealis, at their apartheid-style treatment of the people whose land I thought they’d taken. But I was also incredulous at what they’ve achieved in 60 years of nationhood, turning desert waste and ruinous marsh into productive land. And I felt for them, and came away with a far more nuanced impression and understanding.
Seeing the Security Fence/Apartheid Wall that makes the Palestinians caged animals made me cry like a child. But I was glad of it when I took a bus from Jerusalem to Tel Aviv, and when I cycled in the city’s answer to Notting Hill, Newe Tzedek – no chance of any suicide bombers since the wall went up.
In Nablus, I met a ex-PLO man who’d been in Lebanon with Yassir Arafat. Now he sold everything that would help the terrorist/freedom fighter – gun cleaning kit, holsters – except the weapons themselves. Nablus is the first place I’ve visited where politician posters whose heroes are draped in ammo belts and carry heavy weapons.
In Haifa, I hung out with a 25-year-old Israeli girl who knew one Arabic phrase, learned during her three years’ national service in the phrase the Israeli Defence Force (IDF): “stop or I shoot”. Which seems horrible, but it’s easy to judge, isn’t it? As a Brit, no one’s invaded my country for almost 1,000 years. The Israelis have been at war with their neighbours and the Palestinians themselves.
In Hebron, a bustling Arab city of shawarma stands, coffee shops and traffic jams, a young boy brought me to the third-floor roof of his home, to get a bird’s eye view of the Jewish settlement next door and the IDF gun’s placements overlooking the market below. From there, I could see into the squeaky clean Jewish barbed-wire ghetto on one side, and, on the other, metal grids above the marketplace, protecting the Arabs below from the the rocks, rubbish and dirty nappies the Jewish settlers throw out the window.
And then there was the taxi driver who took me from Tel Aviv to Ben Gurion airport on the way home. He’d been a sniper for eight years in the IDF. “When they asked me what I did for a living on my license form, I told them: I make people stop breathing,’ he laughed.
Yet they need peace, not chuckled posturing by Israelis and bitter – understandbly bitter – recriminations from Palestinians. They all need it. The Israelis, so they can relax at home. The Palestinians, because more than 90% of them can’t leave their West Bank or Gaza Strip homes. They’re not allowed to – in case they bring terror to Israel’s Jews. As well as restricting access, the wall/fence is a form of economic warfare against them – and since per capita in the West Bank is US$2,900 and US$28,300 (source: CIA World Factbook), it would clearly make sense if they could trade more freely with the Israelis.
What could bring peace? An end to the Jewish settlements? An end to violence? Tony Blair – he’s out there, camped out in West Jerusalem’s American Colony Hotel? He managed peace in Northern Ireland. But the Arabs don’t like him.
I think the Palestinians need a Gandhi figure, a figure head who doesn’t fight back with weapons, but with dignity, with right on his side. Just as Gandhi shamed the British government into submission, so a Palestinian Great Soul could do the same to the Israelis. The Americans, remember, weren’t always so Israel-biased. They stopped them (and the Brits and French) in Suez in 1956, after all. Couldn’t a Palestinian Mahatma shift opinion so that peace and justice in the Mid East became a real priority?
If global opinion swung irrevocably towards pity for the Palestinians, the Israelis might stop building more settlements in the West Bank, might actually want peace. Those in the know wonder if the status quo actually benefits the Israelis.
How would a peace plan work? Just as the British engaged with the palatable side of the IRA, AKA Sinn Fein, and the palatable side of terrorism in India, so the Palestinians need someone who turns the other cheek, who fights hate with compassion and understanding. Someone the Israeli public opinion might even embrace.
It’s a tall order, but it’s a plan that’s worked before.
And wouldn’t it be better if the only Arabic phrase normal Israelis knew wasn’t “stop or I shoot”?